Superior Energy SolutionsAttic
Air Sealing
Windows and Doors
Wall and Floor Insulation
Heating and Cooling Systems
Air Ducts
Water Heaters
Appliance and Lighting
Ventilation and Indoor Air Quality
Attic Insulation
Insulation decreases your energy usage by slowing heat loss from your living space into the attic and through the walls, and is especially effective when installed in conjunction with air sealing.
U.S. Department of Energy recommends between R-38 and R-60 in the attic.
Attic Ventilation
Attic ventilation is important for removing moisture from the attic to help prevent damage to insulation and the roof structure. Building codes call for ventilation; this allows moisture to dry out and help prevent roof damage.
The ventilation should be balanced, with some vents placed high on the roof structure, and others placed low. Typical high vents are (1) “ridge vents” -a continuous opening at the peak of a roof, usually covered with shingles to match the roof; and (2) “roof vents” -covered openings in the roof. These come in various sizes. Typical low vents are “soffit vents” small, screened holes or a continuous opening in the flat soffit area that connects the lower end of the roof to the wall. Rigid foam baffles should be installed on the inside surface of the roof deck to ensure that soffit vents are not blocked by attic insulation and to prevent blowback.
Your house may need air sealing in the attic, basement, crawlspaces or living spaces in the home. Controlling air leakage is a key ingredient in successful home performance and energy usage. As indicated previously, air sealing should be performed before adding any insulation where needed.
Air Sealing -Benefits and Technical Characteristics
Air infiltration is different than air ventilation for fresh air and should be treated as invasive holes to the outside, as if leaving a window open all year round.
Below are some technical details on the effects of air leakage.
- Air leakage can significantly reduce insulation R-value.
- Air leakage can account for a significant percentage of a building’s heat loss.
- Air leakage moves moisture into and out of a house, exerting a wetting and or drying effect.
- Air leakage can cause different house zone pressures that can interfere with the venting of combustion appliances.
- Air leaks can bring pollutants into the home from the attic and wet crawlspaces.
It is important to have well-insulated, high performance windows and doors. You will see and feel the difference through improved comfort, reduced condensation, and lower energy costs. Look for the ENERGY STAR label to identify the most efficient windows, skylights, and sliding glass doors. A window’s insulating ability is measured by its U-value. Since heat flows from warm to cold in the winter, heat flows from your home interior through the windows to the colder exterior. The reverse occurs in the summer. The lower the U-value, the less heat flows through the window. Your contractor may recommend that Replacement windows have low-emissivity coatings (low-E). These windows transmit virtually the same amount of daylight as uncoated windows, but they help keep the heat in during the winter, and out during the summer. Low-E windows often make a room feel significantly more comfortable.
A door’s insulative ability is measured by its R-value, which is the resistance to heat flow. The greater the R-value means the greater the effectiveness in slowing heat loss and maximizing energy efficiency and comfort. Doors should have an R-value of 4 or higher.
Doors and windows should also be air tight. Leaky windows greatly lower the effective R-value of the window. Proper installation is very important in this.
The recommendations to the right indicate where your house needs insulation upgrades in basements, crawl spaces, walls, floors, and other areas of the home that may have been overlooked during construction or have diminished over time. As with attic insulation, these Insulation recommendations are most effective when installed in conjunction with air sealing.
U.S. Department of Energy recommends between R-13 and R-21 in the wall cavities, and between R-25 and R-30 in the floor.
Insulation -Benefits and Technical Characteristics
In addition to energy savings benefits, insulation also acts as a sound barrier, allowing you to enjoy a quieter home.
Below are some technical details on the types of insulation that we recommend:
- Cellulose insulation is an excellent insulator made out of recycled newsprint treated with fire retardant. It provides excellent coverage, filling in gaps often left between insulation batts and ceiling or wall joists.
- Cellulose insulation can also be used to stop air leakage, either outside air coming in, or conditioned air leaking out. To prevent air leakage, the cellulose insulation will be installed at twice the normal density. This procedure, called “dense pack cellulose,” is very effective and will not harm walls or ceilings.
- Spray foam insulation can be one of several products, generally polyurethane or polyisocyanurate. These are environmentally safe synthetic foams that fill gaps and holes, have excellent insulation values, and block air movement.
- Fiberglass batts are the most common form of insulation. The batts must be installed very carefully to avoid leaving gaps that become leakage paths for air.
Much of your home’s energy costs are for heating and cooling. That is why maximizing its efficiency is important. One way to increase an existing system’s performance is through periodic maintenance-performed annually,--while gas-fired systems should be checked and serviced every two years. If your system is more than 10 years old, it may be time to replace the system with a high-efficiency and correctly sized system.
The efficiency of a gas or oil heating system is a measure of how effectively it converts fuel into useful heat. There are two types of efficiency. “Overall system efficiency” gives you the entire system’s efficiency while it is operating, taking into consideration energy loss through the distribution system. The “annual fuel utilization efficiency” (AFUE) measures the efficiency of the boiler or furnace, accounting for start-up and cool down, as well as other operating losses that occur in real operating conditions.
New gas-fired heating systems and hot water boilers should have an AFUE rating of at least 90%. If you have an oil furnace, the recommendation is 81%. The efficiency of central air conditioning systems and heat pumps is measured by its Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER); the higher the SEER, the greater the efficiency. A SEER of at least 13 is recommended. If you are considering a new system, ask for an ENERGY STAR qualified system for optimum efficiency. It is always a good idea to have your contractor perform a manual J calculation when performing HVAC replacement
Forced Air Duct Distribution Systems
Forced air supply and return ducts should be sealed as tight as possible to ensure that the conditioned air is delivered to rooms evenly. Supply duct leaks can contribute to wasted energy and an uncomfortable living space. Return leaks can pull mold, dust, and other unwanted particles into your home. To prevent this air leakage through the seams and joints of the duct work, including the connections to the registers in the ceilings and floors--they should be sealed with mastic.
Duct insulation is important for keeping the conditioned air inside the ducts at the desired temperature when being delivered to the rooms in your home. There are several types of duct insulation available. The most common is vinyl-faced fiberglass. Duct insulation should be cut to fit, with all seams properly secured with mechanical fasteners (staples, straps) to achieve the optimum R-value. Duct tape alone is not recommended. These measures are especially important for ducts that are located in unheated areas, such as attics or crawl spaces.
We can also make recommendations for improving the efficiency of your water heater. Typical recommendations include insulating an existing tank with an insulated wrap; replacing the existing tank with a more efficient model using the same fuel; or replacing the existing tank with another fuel source, usually natural gas or an on demand gas water heater. If your water pipes are not insulated, we will often recommend insulating any exposed water pipes. Normally recommended water temperature is 120 degrees F.
Combustion Appliance Testing and Performance
We have been trained to inspect and test combustion appliances such as heating equipment and water heaters, for proper performance to ensure safe operation. This comprehensive evaluation includes measurement of carbon monoxide (CO) produced by the appliance, and testing to ensure that potentially dangerous combustion gasses are not introduced into the home.
Appliance Replacement
When it is time to buy or replace your home appliances, be sure to ask for models with the ENERGY STAR label. These appliances Use less energy than conventional models. Many dishwashers that carry the ENERGY STAR label are built with innovative technology to clean better while using less energy and water. Today’s ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerators use half the energy of a typical refrigerator. You will find the ENERGY STAR label on brand name refrigerators, dishwashers, clothes washers, room air conditioners, and home electronics.
Lighting Upgrades
When replacing light bulbs or installing new light fixtures, you will save time and money when you choose models that have earned the ENERGY STAR label. According to the EPA, today’s ENERGY STAR qualified lights equal or surpass the quality of light found in conventional incandescent bulbs, using up to 75% less energy and lasting up to 10 times longer. You’ll save on energy bills plus the added trouble of changing the light bulbs.
Minimum Building Airflow Standard
Minimum Building Airflow Standard Example Calculation
(ASHRAE 62-89)
Step 1: Calculate the Ventilation Required for the Building
AIRFLOW (b) = 0.35 x volume / 60
Step 2: Calculate the Ventilation Required for the People
AIRFLOW (p) = 15 x occupants
Step 3: Using the Higher Airflow Requirement, Convert to CFM50
MINIMUM_CFM50 = AIRFLOW x N
Where N is the LBL conversion factor = 15.4
Humidity Levels
In your home, an average relative humidity of 35 to 40 percent is appropriate when the outside temperature is 20°F or above. However, during cold weather, higher humidity ranges may cause structural damage because of condensation on windows and on the inside of exterior walls. As outdoor temperatures fall, condensation problems inside may develop. The construction of a home also influences how much humidity is desirable. Tightly constructed buildings with properly installed vapor barriers and tight fitting doors and windows retain more heat and moisture. This is where mechanical ventilation becomes important. If a home does not have the proper mechanical ventilation, excess water vapor can move through walls and ceilings, causing wet insulation, peeling paint, and mold on walls and woodwork.
Outside temperature (°F) |
Recommended relative humidity |
+20° and above |
35% to 40% |
+10° |
30% |
0° |
25% |
-10° |
20% |
-20° |
15% |
